I’ve been resisting writing about this place for years. Hidden over the Welsh hills in a sheltered cove, it’s my secret happy place by the Irish Sea.
I grew up in North Wales. Well, half the time. We had a house there and would stay over summers as much as possible. We also had a water skiing boat. We’d fish from it out in the bay. My dad taught me how to fish for mackerel when I was around eight years old. He also taught me how to get the fish off the trawler line, put my thumb in their mouths and break their necks, then gut them and fillet them. I’m not sure if I’ve forgiven him yet.
I digress. There’s a stunningly lovely unspoiled bay with a pub at the end of the peninsula. The pub’s been there since 1842 to serve the local fishermen, and it largely remains the same, with its old hanging tankards, ship lanterns, and old photos bedecking the walls, except for a short while when it became a vicarage. It’s hard to get to which is a redeeming factor. Yet, still, it’s been discovered in the past few years and horrifically named one of the best beach bars in the world by a few intrepid journalists. The Tŷ Coch (tee cork), the red house. It’s red — it’s always been red, and it has to stay red, or it’d have to change its name — is a secret no more.
It used to have a lean-to shop underneath that sold ice creams, popsicles, and potato chips — crisps. I know, as I worked there as a teenager. The old window hatch is all filled in now.
The Tŷ Coch Inn is in Porthdinllaen, a sheltered bay near Morfa Nefyn in Gwynedd, North Wales and is situated on the end of the Llŷn (Clean) Peninsula. There’s an 18-hole golf course on the top of the peninsula, which is open to the elements, which can be good, or hellishly windy. Anyway, that’s also a way to get to the pub if the tide is in in the bay, otherwise you walk about a mile on the beach to get there, and it’s wonderful. The water is calm, flat, and clear, and when the tide’s all the way out, there are small rock pools on the point for children to find little crabs. The place hasn’t changed in eons.
The pub has been owned by the same family for over 50 years, and is currently run by the son, Stuart. His always colorfully haired mother Brionne still makes fresh food every morning and delivers it to the pub. They are sticklers for fresh food, and when it’s run out it’s run out. They do amazing shrimp rolls, hot soups, chili, crab salads and ploughman’s lunches and their portions are generous.
Dogs are also welcome.
In summers sometimes they’ll have live music in the evenings and the odd fire juggler, but food is only sold until late afternoon. Best to check on the website before you make the trek as it’s changeable depending on the season. They used to sell cloudy scrumpy (home brewed boozy cider), it made getting back along the beach rather fun. But even without the scrumpy, getting back along the beach is still fun.
Regarding the music, nothing is planned, it’s all organic, you just have to be there at the right time.
There are a number of Airbnb’s to stay in in Morfa Nefyn (even on the beach), and a couple of hotels in neighboring Nefyn, plus there are a couple of little stores and a small gas station that has a deli, alcohol, and freshly cooked takeout food.
Larger towns to visit close by are Pwllhelli and Abersoch, and there are a few castles not so far away. The area is perfect for hikers.
If you miss lunch hours at the Tŷ Coch, on the way back up Beach Road, you can stop at The Cliffs, which has stunning views of the bay. It has a bar, large outdoor deck, and a homey wooden floored restaurant where dogs are also welcome. They serve fresh lobsters cooked to order that are caught by the local fishermen each day. Through the summer they also host live music events.
Tali’s Taxi service in Morfa Nefyn on 0738 734 0980 will help with any disabled access.
Wherever you come from it’s going to take you hours to get there, driving through the Welsh hills, there’s no avoiding it. There’s no public transport, and no superhighways close by. It’s been the same for years, very narrow winding undulating lanes, green hills, and sheep.
So, unless you’re a meandering casual traveler, best not to go there. Anyway, the secret’s out.