Off the beaten path, where ancient civilizations were born, among honey-colored sculpted mountains and where small birds constantly sing, resides a dream hotel destination: Argos in Cappadocia, Uçhisar, in the Anatolian region of Turkey, formally known as Asia Minor.
The hotel sits high on the hill above the old Silk Road, where my charming waiter in Nahita restaurant in Uçhisar told me, “Many years ago, 5000 pigeons were released in the valley below with tiny mirrors attached to their legs, the sun reflecting off the mirrors showed far off travelers the way to go.” The Silk Road was once a vital link between the East and the West, between Asia and Europe, trading silk, spices, and precious stones. The valley is now named Pigeon Valley.
Steeped in history, the region was formed 60-million years ago by a cataclysm of volcanic lava from three mountains erupting, mixing with ash, wind and rain over time to form unique geological mounds and the “fairy chimneys” that the area is known for. Cappadocia was mentioned in the Bible and is where some of the oldest human structures on the planet can still be found. Hundreds of churches are carved into the rocky mounds in the region, and tunnels, tombs, Ottoman period buildings, as well as underground settlements said to have housed up to 20,000 people, and dating back to the 7th and 8th centuries BC.
Argos in Cappadocia — pronounced Kap-a-dokya — is beyond a magical and sacred experience. Set halfway up a mountain with zigzagged cobbled roads are a series of extremely unique hotel rooms, their facades built out from ancient caves behind them, and each hiding a mystery inside. The hotel is spread across a portion of the village hillside, and now comprises 71, to-say-the-least very unique rooms and suites. You are cocooned in the history of a cave where monks used to live.
This is thanks to an investor who came through the area in 1997. Impressed with the village, he had fallen in love with the area, and initially purchased the monastery and surrounding caves, then slowly built the property out. Due to strict renovation laws, the existing caves were not to be changed in any way, and the work took a few years, the walls only sealed to prevent dust and erosion.
The cave rooms are therefore all unique. Some going into the mountain with floors down below… two story cave, anyone? And you can have your own pool – inside the cave.
This place is purely unbelievable.
Initially opening with 15 rooms in the vicinity of the Monastery, which itself had gone through different incarnations during time (at some point housing animals, with families living on rafters above, getting heat from the camels, horses, and goats). The feeding troughs remain, although the rafters are gone. The ancient monastery now holds musical events and large dinners, and is magnificent. Especially if you have many, many friends.
In 2014, Doğuş Group purchased the hotel and set about expanding the venture. Having other luxury properties globally, they had the blueprint. Founder Ayhan Şahenk once imbued, “The joy and happiness of doing something that will benefit your country and your people, will rekindle your potential energy and set you on the right course.” Can’t argue with that.
Current Hotel Manager Deniz Karkin carries this message onwards, having come on board in 2019 after many years in the Turkish and Washington, DC hotel industry. His demeanor is thoughtful, caring and nurturing, supporting simple ethical, sustainable eco standards. Deniz is proud of what they have achieved here, and he should be. The community is magical.
The hotel practices an ethical, eco-policy throughout, from the wooden key cards, to no plastic items. Their restaurant menu is held in a QR code on a wooden cube, eliminating extra paper waste. They communicate via WhatsApp, which is efficient and useful. And their service is seamless.
Sustainability is key. The fruits, vegetables and herbs are either grown on the terraced land in the hotel’s organic gardens or come from within a 60 km radius. These make up the majority of ingredients used in the hotel’s two restaurants, offering you a genuine farm to table experience. Seki restaurant offers a more international theme. Nahita is more regional Anatolian cuisine, with delicious stuffed vine leaves with sour cherry, and smoked artichoke starters, for instance
Deniz tells me about collecting rainwater and winter snow to use for irrigation. Dried flowers decorate the rooms, grown in the summer and stored in the caves to dry. You’re greeted with some lavender from their hillside, a to go gift, and a handwritten note. The decorations throughout the hotel are peppered with old farming implements or broken artefacts they found on the hillsides. Everything is executed with a loving awareness.
All the staff at Argos are wonderful. Led by hotel Marketing Specialist, Aleyna Aseren, they work seamlessly to provide a wonderful and memorable stay. From upon arrival at Nevşehir Airport, where Recyep, their George Michael lookalike, whisks you into the night in a neon lit limousine.
The summer months are fine to visit, and September is lovely. While it may get hot at certain times during summer, you do have an air-conditioned cave to retreat to, or poolside in the shade pampered with fresh fruit platters. Or you can float away in the cave pool in the spa. So, options. The nights are cooler, as you’re in the mountains, and the air is dry. Much cooler than coastal regions, and the hotel provides blankets on all terraces for chilly guests.
Silent electric buggies will take you where you want to go. Great if you get short of breath climbing the narrow-cobbled street, or if you come out of one of the two restaurants and can’t remember where your room is, or where anything is. It’s a good feeling.
Mina may take you on the cave vineyard tour, to the museum, and take you through narrow tunnels that go on for 5 km. The hotel has the largest natural wine cellar in the whole of Turkey. Their caves hold up to 35,000 bottles of wine, some from their own vineyard along with an impressive selection of European wines and champagnes, from Sancerre to Taittinger to Tignanello.
There is no excuse for not sleeping here either. They have a pillow menu – you know what it can be like if you don’t have the right pillow. Argos gets around this by offering a variety of them from wool to hard cotton, soft microfiber, anti-allergenic, orthopedic… and there’s more.
At night Hobbit caves are lit up in the distance, and hot air balloons float by at sunrise. Stone floors scattered with Turkish rugs, old stone fireplaces, small sparrow birds twittering outside. It’s holy in this place. Occasionally a speaker from the mosque will sing, inviting you to come and pray, and you’re reminded that you are somewhere else, unique. And different religions live in harmony.
The Argos Spa has only opened in the past year. They offer a host of treatments, the air fragrant with bamboo air purifiers inviting you in, and a marble hammam where they will cover you in bubbles, as well as the most incredible underground cave pool. There is something divine about the mineral water. At the perfect temperature, it feels weightless, cool, and effortless. There are steam rooms, saunas and a 24-hour cave gym.
A menu of facials and massages add to the ultimate relaxation, using a combination of local and Swiss cellular products.
You will need to plan your stay here for at least a week, or you will leave disappointed. There’s a literal labyrinthine maze in, and on, the mountainside to explore as well as the amenities of the hotel to enjoy.
Cappadocia in Persian means ‘land of beautiful horses’, and you can in fact ride beautiful horses at sunset. You can also go hot air ballooning at dawn, and be greeted with champagne on landing. There are ATV vehicles to explore the surroundings. Hike to Uçhisar Fort at the top of the hill, go cave wine-tasting, swim in the outdoor heated infinity pool. Or barbeque, or picnic on the hillside.
There are exquisite small souvenir shops up in the town, also set within old caves. And you are on the edge of Göreme National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Argos will help you with everything.
The hotel hosts occasional musical events, and there’s even sound healing — perfect for group events and solo trips.
Fly via Istanbul which services all major hubs, and is best to connect to Nevşehir.
Doğuş Group also owns D-Resort in Gocek, D-Resort in Ayvalik, and D Maris Bay in Marmaris.
Tekelli, Kayabaş Sk. No: 23, 50240 Uçhisar/Nevşehir Merkez/ Nevşehir TÜRKİYE
Telephone +90 384 219 31 30
https://www.argosincappadocia.com/en/dine-wine