Oh another week, another mess. This time the Trumpoleon has deported five immigrants (from Vietnam, Jamaica, Cuba, Yemen and Laos) to a small landlocked country inside my home country of South Africa called Eswatini. And the local representatives there say they are “holding the men in correctional facilities until they can be sent to their home countries.” This is just the latest African nation to accept “third-country deportees” from America –- after America horribly and inhumanely deported eight migrants to war-torn South Sudan.
And naturally, offloading “unreturnable” deportees to third countries should spark accusations of racism and neocolonialism. But we’ll let the Internet and Reddit do that work for us.
Well, for me, the travel writer, all of this gives us a great excuse to write about this teensy country, one I visited many times as a child growing up in South Africa. The country was actually known as Swaziland then but changed its name to Eswatini in 2018, after the king announced it should revert to its traditional name in the Swazi language. It was Swaziland when it was under British colonial rule, which ended in 1968.
Speaking of Swazi, I actually only speak Northern Sotho (also known as Sepedi). They are both Bantu languages, they are not very similar and, as I can attest, are not mutually intelligible. Swazi belongs to the Nguni branch of Bantu languages, while Northern Sotho belongs to the Sotho-Tswana branch. So maybe brush up before you head south?
Anyway, here are my ten reasons to visit Eswatini.
1. Get yourself into a deep cultural immersion
Eswatini is one of the last remaining monarchies in Africa, where you can witness centuries-old traditions in action. Experience the incwala (the annual King’s Ceremony) or the Umhlanga Reed Dance, a cultural festival that celebrates tradition, dance, and community.
2. They also, like the rest of Southern Africa, have majestic wildlife safari
Eswatini is home to some of my favorite game reserves and exceptionally well-preserved national parks, such as Hlane Royal National Park and Mkhaya Game Reserve, where you can see the “Big Five” (lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and buffalo).
3. It’s just too beautiful as far as your eyes can see
From the towering Lubombo Mountains to the Mbuluzi River and lush valleys, the country is pretty dramatic when it comes to landscapes in southern Africa. One of the best ways to get to these mind blowing views is to hike in the Malolotja Nature Reserve.
4. They have plenty of peculiar things that will delight
Like the ghost town of Lobamba. This historic village, which once served as the royal seat of the Swazi monarchy, is now largely abandoned, except for a few residents and the impressive Lobamba Royal Cemetery. Or the Crocodile River that turns pink. Although the river isn’t permanently pink, there are occasional times (especially during certain seasons or after specific weather patterns) when the water takes on a rosy hue. It’s caused by a combination of algae and mineral deposits that reflect sunlight in a way that makes the water appear pinkish.
5. I hate the word authentic, but it does truly have authentic local craftsmanship not manufactured in China
The country is known for its skilled artisans. There are these local markets in Manzini and in Mbabane that I love –- think woven baskets, colorful beadwork, wooden carvings, and royal candles.
6. It’s just so darn peaceful
Honestly, unlike some of the more tourist-heavy commercialized African destinations (as much as I adore them), Eswatini is tranquil. You get your peaceful retreat without the crowds.
7. Cozy up for warm Swazi hospitality
Maybe it’s because they have a real focus on community and respect, so everything comes from that place. Somehow they are just friendlier than many places I have been to. This is a great moment to learn about their greeting customs, from “sawubona” (hello) to “ye bo” (I acknowledge you).
8.The history is deeply fascinating
Early inhabitants were Khoisan hunter-gatherers, followed by Bantu migrations that brought ancestors of the modern Swazi people. A good way to find out a lot of interesting things is to visit the Royal Village of Ludzidzini or the Ngwenya Mine, one of the world’s oldest mines.
9. I love me some adventure
They have incredible white-water rafting on the Great Usutu River, plus serious mountain biking in all their scenic mountains.
10. They have a real focus on eco-tourism
The country is super committed to preserving its natural resources through their eco-tourism initiatives. For instance by visiting, you’re directly supporting sustainable development and wildlife conservation efforts, ensuring that future generations will enjoy these landscapes and biodiversity. A great example is the community-based project, the Shewula Mountain Camp, which is fully owned and run by the community.