A LITTLE KNOWN TOWN IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE
La Ciotat is close to Marseille but most tourists don’t know it, unless they have to repair their yacht
La Ciotat almost rhymes with yacht, except the final “t” is silent.
If you have a yacht — and I’ve been told if you do, you call it a “boat” — then you’ve most likely heard of La Ciotat because it’s a kind of hospital for yacht repairs. For this reason, the town hums along all year round. January is a particularly busy month as boats from near and far waters are sailed in for maintenance.
With a population just under 40,000 and located in the south of France about a 30 minute drive from Marseille, the town is south of France-lite. It has a workaday vibe, described by a French friend as a “formerly seedy” town. You won’t find St. Tropez glam or prices here, except for the reminder of a sizable yacht or two (no doubt there for repair) afloat in the harbor. The non-wood boardwalk next to the harbor stretches on and on and is decorated with fanciful light fixtures — large colorful sparkly globes of light hanging in the air — a touch of whimsy and a feel-good place to stroll.
In the evening, it’s as though the entire town is tipped on its side and everyone slides down to the old port. Restaurants and cafés are jam packed, primarily with locals and French speaking tourists, and the boardwalk is full of strollers.
I thought we were the only Americans in town. In three days I had only heard British English. But then, one late morning as I was snacking on some local pastries, yes, multiple, at what was recommended as the best bakery in town (see below), two young American women sat down in front of me. A few minutes later another, unrelated to them, American woman who was visiting her French grandmother, sat down too. It turns out the two American buddies (wearing a beachy ratio of 75% skin to 25% clothing), were brand new college grads taking their graduation-reward trip. They had queried ChatGPT for an “affordable” place to vacation in the south of France.
As for nature: La Ciotat is known for its hiking trails and the Mugel and Figuerolles calanques, a geographical word I never heard of until I started planning the trip. Part of the Maritime Alps, calanques are towering limestone rock sculptures that rise very dramatically from the sea, looking like they’re straight out of a James Bond film, though the location was never used for this purpose. From town it’s an easy 15 minute walk to the beach, where one can swim among the calanques. A favorite hike is taking the Chemin de la Croix path for about 30 minutes up to the Semaphore or as far as the village of Cassis. One can also hike around Mugel to the botanical garden Parc du Mugel, or hike down to Figuerolles for a splendid view of the beach.
As for shopping: a narrow pedestrian main street is set back a couple of blocks parallel to the old port, winding along with shops and a couple of cafés along the way. When I go to France, I like stocking up on pharmacy products (admittedly, an extensive list, but one example is Embryolisse Radiant Rose Lumière Cream), but neither of the pharmacies in the old part of town carried the popular brand, which I later picked up at the Nice Airport. Instead, I came away with a La Ciotat souvenir: a postcard blue thermometer featuring, you guessed it—calanques, and informative dual celsius and fahrenheit readings, that set me back all of 5 euros.
Where to stay
Airbnbs aren’t hard to find. What is harder is finding one with private parking, so you don’t have the hassle of trying to find a space at the public parking lot which can be challenging during the summer. Recommended is a pristinely clean two-story house adjacent to the center of town. There’s a lot of indoor and outdoor space, a washing machine that’s always a major plus on a long trip, and other conveniences, not to mention a bookshelf that even had a copy of The Bell Jar in English. You can drive right into the front yard parking area and lock the gate behind you.
Café de l’Horloge
On the main shopping drag is this trendy tiny café with outdoor seating that serves for handy caffeine refills and is a popular people watching venue.
Elmina Restaurant
Close your eyes and take in the scent of sea air as you sit a stone’s throw from boats parked at the harbor. The Mediterranean, predominately Lebanese restaurant, serves generous helpings that keep all food preferences happy, be it mezzes, falafel, Greek salad, lamb, meatballs with mint, and even serves Greek Mythos beer that I last saw in Santorini.
The Temple Bar
Props to WONDERLUST’S most excellent managing editor Camilla, who lives in Marseilles and introduced me to the first alcoholic beverage I can actually drink in the afternoon without getting sleepy. The Monaco, which in this part of the world currently vies in popularity with the Aperol Spritz, is a thirst quenching drink that’s more or less (depending on the bartender) half beer, half sparkling lemonade, and a splash of Grenadine. The trendy Temple Bar does it just right.
Coeur
In the heart of the main shopping drag is Coeur. The small clothing shop has high end whimsical, embroidered cotton garments from India (and elsewhere), and other Palm Beach type resort wear, at can’t resist price points. The shop is expertly curated and inclusive to all: classic, sexy, boho, breezy, summery, with a south of France frisson that puts a smile on your face.
Best Western Premier Hotel Du Vieux Port
Super convenient hotel at the port. It’s busy year round, and, as aforementioned, especially in winter months as it’s popular with the crews who sail ships in for repair. This makes for an affordable base for travelers who like their hotels in the center of all the action. It’s an easy walk to beaches, a big grocery store, shopping, hiking trails — and calanques.
Foodetoi Bakery
At the old port, this old-fashioned bakery has a range of organic breads, native to the region baked goods, pastries, cookies, sandwiches and more. One can order a coffee and pick out a few things to snack on — nobody can eat just one — and sit outside, watching the clouds dance above the water.
