HOW TO DO THE AMALFI COAST THE RIGHT WAY

 

 

The Amalfi Coast. Been there. Done that. Or have you? The Amalfi Coast is gorgeous and certainly a place to be seen, but recently the beautiful coastside town itself has received negative press due to overtourism. 

 

But let’s get the real skinny from Sarah Thomspon, American transplant and CEO and founder of Luxama Travel, a boutique agency that helps people customize itineraries along the Amalfi Coast. Sarah has lived there for most of the last decade and knows how to enjoy the region the non-touristy way. 

 

“There’s more than meets the eye,” she says. “And just because it’s called the Amalfi Coast doesn’t mean Amalfi is the most exciting town along the coast. Branching out into the unspoken hidden villages is where you find the authentic experiences.”

 

OK, Sarah, so tell us…

 

 

 

Best place to stay if you’re looking for high-end.

 

That’s a difficult question, but it ultimately comes down to what you value in a high-end establishment. The biggest challenge of the Amalfi Coast is accessibility because space here is limited. If I had to choose the best place to stay for high-end, quiet luxury it has to be Ravello. Stunning views, secluded from the rest of the chaotic coastline, and has some of the most breathtaking accommodations like Palazzo Avino and Belmond Caruso.

 

 

 

 

 

What are some traditional Amalfi dishes travelers should look to try?

 

Seafood obviously thrives along the Amalfi Coast, but there are a lot of other dishes that even vegetarians can enjoy and one of them has to be “Pasta alla Nerano”, which is a spaghetti dish with fried zucchini. The story of this dish dates back to the 1950s. According to local legend, it was invented by Maria Grazia, owner of Ristorante Maria Grazia, a now-famous restaurant in Marina del Cantone (Nerano). One evening, a group of hungry diners arrived at the restaurant, and Maria, seeking to create something new and delicious using local ingredients, decided to combine fried zucchini with pasta. To give the dish more depth, she added a blend of cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano and the sacrilegious butter to the pasta (yes, french, we know) to make the extra creamy sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

Best spots for a real meal and not just tourist crap? No “pictures on the menu” kind of places!

 

It depends which town you find yourself in, but I absolutely love La Tonnarella in Conca dei Marini –- only accessible by boat or by foot but it’s an amazing place to find some of the freshest fish of the day and you have to try their ‘Cannolicchi’ (Razor clams). Some of the best you will find along the entire coast!

 

An eclectic restaurant to check out is Sensi Amalfi  with Chef Alessandro Tormolino- they just got their first Michelin Star this year with him as well. An incredible modern twist on the Amalfi Coast cuisine.

 

 

 

 

 

Another one I love and has some of the best seafood dishes with a modern twist is Next2 in Positano

 

Fattoria Terranova is one of the best hidden gems for an agriturismo — all locally grown produce and food hidden up in the hills of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, with a gorgeous view looking down along the Amalfi Coast.

 

Best Home Cooked meal? It’s a home restaurant experience called Felicia’s Home Restaurant in the hills of the hidden Amalfi coast town, Tramonti. She has a beautiful authentic family farm home restaurant and cooking class that even Madonna participated in this year.

 

 

What are your driving tips? And where is the best place to get a rental? Or if you want a private driver?

 

Driving along the Amalfi Coast is definitely not for the faint of heart. The best tip I can give is either hop on a scooter or stay as far away from them as possible  — there’s no in between (quite literally). Scooters have the right  of way in everything and are able to go in and out of traffic even when it’s at a stand-still. Best part of it all? Free parking nearly everywhere. 

 

 

 

 

 

With cars you have to deal with squeezing into tiny spaces, on roads that are arms-width apart, praying you don’t get a scratch on the car, and have to pay high fees for parking that can easily add up. Not to mention ZTL zones that restrict traffic at certain hours of the day and you’ll be welcomed home with multiple fines you have to pay for entering during those restricted hours. 

 

But scooters are also quite dangerous –- you have to pay attention otherwise you will get lost or, worse, crash into a SITA bus going around a corner, honking its horn warning you about the incoming traffic. The Amalfi Coast only offers a one foot railing (or stone wall in certain areas) as a barrier from you and a 330 foot drop into the Mediterranean sea.

 

The safest, (and frankly less stressful) option would be to hire a private chauffeur. Trust me, they know the area much better than you. They also know the unwritten rules of the road and have access to those frustrating ZTL zones. Save yourself time and stress by hiring a driver and actually enjoy your vacation. 

 

But if you have the confidence, I recommend renting a scooter or car from Sorrental– They have multiple locations in the Sorrento and Amalfi Coast area, offering car, scooter, and electric bicycle rentals. If you are planning to rent a villa as a large family for a week, a rental car could be a huge help even for a casual grocery trip.

 

 

What’s your  response to a recent article claiming so-called influencers have turned the Amalfi Coast into a theme park?

 

I don’t remember ever seeing a theme park with so many steps before!

 

I think it’s quite ridiculous, because the Amalfi Coast has always been a hotspot destination, long before social media. The article only focused on the ‘viral’ locations that you see on everyone’s FYP. 

 

Just because it’s a popular video, doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the best advice. Like everything on the internet, you have to take it with a grain of salt and only use social media as one of many resources when it comes to travel. That’s why you hire a travel advisor — bonus points for someone local wink, wink… — because it’s their job to tell you which location is actually worth your time and money, and the best way to navigate it.

 

 

What towns along the Amalfi Coast do you feel are underrated and worth checking out?

 

Vietri sul Mare is stunning! Towards the end of the Coast you will find this hidden gem of a town. It’s known for its exquisite ceramics, it offers a more relaxed, authentic vibe compared to its more famous neighbors like Positano and Amalfi. The town’s colorful ceramic-tiled streets, scenic views, and rich cultural heritage make it a captivating destination. 

 

 

 

 

Just outside of Vietri lies I Giardini del Fuenti, a lush, terraced garden and event space set along the coast. A beautiful location for events or weddings. Vietri sul mare also hosts the historic Ceramic Museum within the complex of Villa Guariglia. 

 

The streets are so colorful and mosaics of true artisan ceramics are displayed all throughout the alleyways. I call it the little Barcelona of the Amalfi Coast.

 

For more information, check out Luxmar Travel 

 

Follow Sarah on Instagram