RESTAURANT

 

 

Leon 1909 on Shelter Island, NY, is self-described as an homage to unfussy Italian and French countryside fare, and after a few visits I can confidently confirm the accuracy of that statement. Deft hands and sneaky technique coming from the kitchen, combined with impeccable service and a recently revived, often expanding wine list curated to better pair with the food, make the dining experience something entirely more special, without ever feeling formal or fussy.

 

The exterior looks like an intriguingly understanded but well built modern farmhouse, but once in the front door, the main dining room provides a bit more drama, with soaring ceilings, exposed wooden beams and a massive, central fire-burning hearth complete with hanging chickens, which should certainly be part of your order. 

 

 

 

 

The menu is relatively small (usually a good sign), with a few anchor dishes surrounded by an ever evolving rotation of complementary seasonal offerings.

 

The Montauk Red Shrimp is one of those anchors, and is a Michelin level dish as far as I’m concerned. A circle of lightly cooked Montauk shrimp plated so it looks as if they are swimming together, are surrounded by a wreath of local herbs and flowers, which not only looks stunning on the plate, but is surprisingly easy to eat as well. The shrimp come up one at a time with each stab of a fork, and a quick brush through herbs has just the right amount sticking to citrus vinaigrette, making for a subtly complex combination of flavors and textures. Starting with the sweet salinity of perfectly tender shrimp at lift off, then settling into a leafy landing of slightly crunchy herbs giving this dish a true sense of place, tasting like the best parts of both the sea and the garden. 

 

 

 

 

 

In a world of over complicated, tableside prepared, and, even worse, occasionally grilled caesar salads, Leon’s is an example of just how far simplicity, restraint, and fantastic produce will get you, which is damn near perfection. Order all the salads if you’re with a big group, but if you have only one choice go with the caesar.

 

Other appetizers vary seasonally, but there is always something resembling an antipasti, once a country ham and asparagus and later a tomato salad with prosciutto Americano and mosto cotto (a syrup made from Trebbiano wine grapes). With a group of four or more you could easily order all the appetizers, which I highly recommend.

 

 

 

 

Another anchor dish is the now famous fire roasted chicken. Cooked over the course of three days, starting with a fennel pollen and koji rub, then into a combi oven, and finished in the hearth on day three. It is a study in how to use bold flavors without going over the top and still having the main focus and flavor of this dish be the chicken, and not what it was seasoned or stuffed with.

 

There is always a simply prepared, fresh local fish on the menu and no matter what the chef selects, it is always exemplary. A table of two would do well splitting the shrimp, the caesar, either the chicken or the steak and whatever fresh fish is on the menu that night.

  

Speaking of steak, the last of the anchor dishes is a massive piece of grilled beef, the cuts of which vary, but the perfect cook times and seasoning remain the same. It is big enough for two, but a hungry solo diner could easily polish one off themselves. 

 

 

 

 

Do not skip dessert at Leon 1909, even if you think you are too full. There are two mainstays and a rotating cast of seasonal creations. The two mainstays are a soft, deliciously spongey olive oil cake with pistachio whipped cream and candied bergamot, and a flourless chocolate cake that does not taste flourless, and comes with an almost savory combination of nitro strawberries and whipped cream. They have a truly talented pastry chef and it would be a shame not to taste some of these creations while you are on the island. 

 

The expanding wine list includes wider selections of dessert wines as well, many of which are fitting companions to their dessert counterparts. While on the subject of wine, this is a wonderful place to settle in and pop a few bottles with friends, no matter what your budget. The room is comfortable, the service is professional but never rushed, and the cuisine has bold flavors without being overworked with too many ingredients or fancy prep techniques. Thus leaving plenty of room on the palate for properly paired wines to enhance your flavor experience.